Flint and Pyrite Fire Making
The flint and pyrite (or marcasite) fire making method is one of the most reliable percussion-based techniques for creating fire in primitive conditions. This method creates sparks by striking specific minerals together, which can then be caught on suitable tinder to create a flame.

A basic flint and pyrite fire starting kit with char cloth
Detailed Guide to Flint and Pyrite Fire Making
1. Material Selection

Essential materials for flint and pyrite fire making: flint, pyrite, and char cloth
Flint Selection
- Ideal characteristics:
- Hard, dense stone with sharp edges
- Typically gray, black, or brown with a waxy or glassy luster
- Breaks with a conchoidal (shell-like) fracture
- Piece should fit comfortably in your hand
- Suitable alternatives:
- Chert
- Jasper
- Quartzite
- Any hard silica-rich stone that can produce a sharp edge
- Preparation:
- Break or knap the stone to create sharp edges
- Look for edges with approximately 90° angles
- Remove any weathered or rounded portions
Pyrite/Marcasite Selection
- Ideal characteristics:
- Iron pyrite (FeS₂, also known as "fool's gold")
- Brassy yellow color with metallic luster
- Often forms cubic crystals or nodules
- Piece should be large enough to hold firmly
- Suitable alternatives:
- Marcasite (another form of iron disulfide)
- Iron-bearing meteorites (extremely rare)
- Note: Modern steel is not available in a stone age environment
- Preparation:
- Look for solid pieces without cracks
- Clean off any dirt or debris
- If using a nodule, break it to expose fresh surfaces
Char Cloth Preparation
- Materials needed:
- Natural fiber cloth (cotton, linen, hemp, or nettle)
- Small metal container with a tiny hole in the lid (can be made from available materials)
- Existing fire source for initial charring
- Process:
- Cut cloth into 2-inch (5cm) squares
- Place squares in the container without overpacking
- Close the container, ensuring the small hole remains open
- Place the container in hot coals of an existing fire
- Watch for smoke coming from the hole
- When smoke stops, remove the container and allow to cool completely
- The cloth should be black but not ashy, and should catch a spark easily
Alternative Tinder Materials
- Tinder fungus:
- Fomes fomentarius (horse hoof fungus or amadou)
- Preparation: Remove the hard outer layer and soft spore layer
- Pound the middle layer until soft and flat
- Boil in water with wood ash (if available) to improve spark reception
- Dry completely before use
- Plant down:
- Cattail, thistle, or milkweed seed fluff
- Collect when dry and store in a waterproof container
- Mix with a small amount of finely powdered charcoal to improve spark reception
- Dried moss:
- Collect dry moss, preferably from exposed rocks
- Rub between hands to further dry and separate fibers
- Store in a dry container
2. Striking Technique
Basic Hand Position
- Holding the pyrite:
- Hold the pyrite firmly between the thumb and fingers of your non-dominant hand
- Position it so a flat surface is exposed for striking
- Your hand should be steady and braced
- Holding the flint:
- Hold the flint in your dominant hand
- Grip it so that a sharp edge extends beyond your fingers
- Your hand should be positioned to allow a controlled striking motion
- Tinder position:
- Place your char cloth or other tinder directly against the pyrite
- Position it where the sparks will be directed
- Hold it in place with your thumb or a small stone
Striking Motion
- Angle of strike:
- Hold the flint at approximately a 30° angle to the pyrite
- The sharp edge should be the point of contact
- Direction of strike should be downward and away from your body
- Speed and pressure:
- Use a quick, firm striking motion
- Apply enough pressure to scrape material from the pyrite
- The motion should be more of a scraping than a direct hit
- Follow-through:
- Complete the motion with a follow-through
- This helps ensure a good shower of sparks
- Be prepared to immediately repeat if necessary
Alternative Striking Methods
- Reverse grip:
- Hold the flint stationary and strike with the pyrite
- This can be easier for some people
- The principles of angle and motion remain the same
- Ground method:
- Place the pyrite on a flat surface with tinder on top
- Strike downward with the flint
- This can provide more stability
3. Catching the Spark
Identifying a Good Spark
- Sparks from pyrite are typically:
- Orange to yellow in color
- Cooler than modern steel sparks
- Short-lived compared to steel sparks
- Require more direct contact with tinder
- A successful catch will:
- Create a small glowing spot on the char cloth or tinder
- Continue to glow and spread slowly
- Produce a thin wisp of smoke
Nurturing the Ember
- Initial care:
- Once a spark catches, stop striking
- Gently pick up the tinder with the ember
- Blow very gently to provide oxygen
- The ember should grow brighter and larger
- Transferring to tinder bundle:
- Place the glowing char cloth in the center of your prepared tinder bundle
- Fold the tinder around it, leaving an opening for air
- Hold at eye level and blow steadily through the opening
- Increase blowing strength as smoke increases
- Creating flame:
- When the tinder bundle begins to flame, place it in your prepared fire structure
- Add small kindling gradually
- Build up to larger fuel as the fire establishes
4. Troubleshooting
Common Problems and Solutions
- No sparks produced:
- Verify your materials are genuine pyrite and flint
- Create a fresher, sharper edge on your flint
- Break the pyrite to expose a fresh surface
- Adjust your striking angle to be more acute
- Sparks produced but not catching:
- Ensure your tinder is completely dry
- Check that your char cloth is properly prepared
- Position the tinder closer to where the sparks are landing
- Try striking directly onto the char cloth
- Ember dies quickly:
- Your tinder bundle may be too damp
- Blow more gently at first, then gradually increase
- Ensure your tinder bundle has the right density - not too tight or too loose
- Add finer material around the ember
- Hands getting cut:
- Adjust your grip to keep fingers away from the striking edge
- Use a piece of leather or thick bark to protect your hand
- Try the ground method instead of hand-held striking
Environmental Adaptations
- Wet conditions:
- Keep pyrite, flint, and tinder inside clothing to stay dry
- Carry char cloth in a waterproof container
- Work under natural shelter if possible
- Use body heat to dry materials before attempting fire making
- Cold weather:
- Warm the flint and pyrite in your hands before striking
- Keep movements deliberate despite cold fingers
- Prepare a larger tinder bundle than usual
- Have larger fuel ready to add quickly once flame is achieved
- Wind:
- Create a windbreak with your body or natural materials
- Cup your hands around the tinder when blowing
- Use the wind to your advantage when blowing on the ember
5. Practice and Skill Development
The flint and pyrite method requires practice to master:
- Beginner practice:
- Focus on consistently producing sparks
- Experiment with different striking angles
- Practice with different grip positions
- Intermediate practice:
- Work on directing sparks precisely onto tinder
- Practice with different tinder materials
- Time how long it takes from first strike to ember
- Advanced practice:
- Try to create fire in adverse conditions
- Practice with less-than-ideal materials
- Work on creating fire with minimal equipment
- Reduce time from spark to flame
6. Historical Context
The flint and pyrite method has been used for thousands of years:
- Archaeological evidence:
- Pyrite and flint fire-starting kits have been found in archaeological sites dating back to 10,000 BCE
- Often found with evidence of char materials or tinder fungus
- Commonly carried in pouches or containers for protection
- Cultural significance:
- Many ancient cultures considered fire-making a sacred skill
- Fire-starting materials were often carried as personal possessions
- The ability to create fire quickly was highly valued
- Technological evolution:
- The flint and pyrite method was eventually replaced by flint and steel in many cultures
- However, the basic principles remained the same
- In areas without access to metal, this method continued to be used for thousands of years